I spent a couple of days in Prague at the end of this week with the orchestra, making a brief visit to play a concert on Friday night as part of an international music festival at the incredible concert hall there.
I love Prague for all kinds of reasons, cultural, musical (Kafka, Dvorak) the coffee shops, Viennese connections (another city I love for similar reasons), the amazing history and beautiful buildings (I even like the bread dumplings!).
It’s always interesting seeing what other audiences look like in other parts of the world. You might say it was a more conservative audience, like Vienna, (I’ve never seen a more smartly dressed audience, they all looked like they were on their way to a grand ball!) but also a real spread of ages, fairly evenly from young to old. We performed some English music they can’t have really come across before, including Elgar’s 1st symphony, one of the pieces very much tied in with the history of the Halle. Despite being unfamiliar, the response was incredibly positive.
The city had changed a little since I was last there, the ugly soviet era housing blocks seemed to have been refurbished and made brighter, much less gloomy looking, there was large construction work going on, despite many very run-down buildings in the centre still. There are many very ugly buildings that jar with the beautiful old traditional buildings, as if to illustrate this isn’t just a British disease. The amount of greenery in the city is absolutely breathtaking compared to a city like Manchester. There are city centre residential avenues lined with trees (not just ornamental trees, but chestnut trees!) not just on both sides of the street but also in the middle, and most of then must have been planted in the last 5 years. Whenever I go somewhere else in Europe that regards itself as a great city, the difference in street environment is the thing that always strikes me most, the impoverished street environments in Manchester contrast so starkly. Not that everything was perfect there, despite their dynamic mountaineering mayor in Prague there are obvious problems, like graffiti – on some streets every lovely old building is daubed with large graffiti, a problem clearly worse than here.